Norway’s snow-capped mountains dropping straight into sparkling blue fjords prompts people from all over the world to travel the Norway in a Nutshell route. From the cities of Bergen to Flam to Oslo, the breathtaking and unique scenery will astound you.
Norway has the highest concentration of fjords in the world with two being featured on the UNESCO World Heritage list. National Geographic Magazine named these fjords “the best unspoiled travel destinations in the world,” while the Chicago Tribune includes Norway’s fjords on its list of Seven Wonders of Nature.
Fortunately for nature seekers, the Norwegians have made it very convenient to journey through their famed fjords, waterfalls and mountains.
It’s called Norway in a Nutshell.
Norway in a Nutshell is not an organized tour, but instead the name for a scenic way of touring the country. It consists of a series of trains, buses, and boats taking passengers between the beautiful city of Bergen and the capital city of Oslo – including the famed fjord cruise from Flam.
On one leg of the journey, travelers ride aboard one of the world’s most spectacular trains – the Flamsbana, which in 2014 Lonely Planet Traveller named “the world’s most incredible train journey.” Traveling through mountains and valleys riders encounter waterfalls and tiny villages dotting the countryside.
Before you book your Norway in a Nutshell tour know these 9 important tips.
1. Visit during shoulder season.
If you can choose what time of year to visit Norway, May is just about perfect. In May, the weather is mild and the mountains are snow-capped, creating majestic views of white peaks against a blue sky backdrop. Sure, the summer months of June, July and August have the warmest weather, but they also see the most crowds of tourists. You’ll have some crowds in the shoulder season (the time between peak and off-peak season) but not nearly as many as during summer. And while Norway is expensive to visit year round, traveling during shoulder season can save you money on airfare and lodging. One thing to note: May 17 is Norway’s Constitution Day. The whole country parades and parties. It can be a fun time celebrating with the locals, but keep in mind many shops are closed. Restaurants generally stay open but can get crowded so plan ahead.
2. Customize the Norway in a Nutshell trip yourself from Bergen to Flam to Oslo, or vice versa.
While the official online website, NorwayNutshell.com, can book your entire trip for you with all the necessary boat, bus, and train tickets/reservations, we highly suggest booking your own trip between the cities of Bergen, Flam, and Oslo.
If you personally buy tickets for each leg of the journey yourself, you can save money and also create the most efficient and less-crowded itinerary.
Don’t worry, it’s easy to do! We’ve broken down the Norway in a Nutshell steps one by one.
Here’s how it’s done:
You can begin in Oslo and travel to Bergen or the other way around. Let’s say you’re starting in Oslo.
You will book a 4 ½ hour train ride to the mountain top village of Myrdal. This is the longest leg of the journey and while scenic, an even more spectacular train ride is up next.
From Myrdal you will ride the most majestic train journey into the fjord village of Flam. It’s only 12 miles but the route takes 45 minutes as you wind through mountains next to waterfalls and valleys. You should book this leg of the journey well in advance.
Flam is a small village where many people decide to extend their trip and stay overnight. Book accommodations early if interested in this stopover. The towns of Aurland and Undredal are a little less convenient, but equally scenic towns to spend the night along the way.
The most dramatic parts of the journey continue as you board a fjord cruise from Flam to Gudvangen. Soak it all in as you cruise straight through the famed Naeroyfjord. Again, buy this ticket well in advance.
In Gudvangen, you will board a bus that winds its way around to the city of Voss. You are not able to book this ticket in advance, but don’t worry the bus provides enough room for all passengers on the ferry.
From Voss, you will travel by train an hour and twenty minutes to Bergen.
It may sound a little overwhelming to book yourself, but here it is in a nutshell…
If you are traveling the Norway in a Nutshell route from Oslo to Flam to Bergen, you’ll need to book:
- Train ticket from Oslo to Myrdal
- Train ticket from Myrdal to Flam
- Fjord cruise from Flam to Gudvangen
- (Buy a bus ticket from Gudvangen to Voss when you arrive)
- Train ticket from Voss to Bergen
(If you’re starting your journey in Bergen, just reverse this itinerary.)
3. You don’t need more than one night in Bergen.
Bergen is unbelievably beautiful, but the city center is compact and it also rains a LOT. An average of 240 days a year! Stay overnight downtown so you are close to everything, and you only need 24-36 hours to explore. Read this detailed article on how to spend your time in Bergen… Break from the Norm in Bergen, Norway. People short on time will appreciate saving more room for the middle of the Norway in a Nutshell journey, namely the fjords!
4. Pay attention to the weather and be flexible.
Being open to last minute change is important in many aspects of travel, but especially travel in Norway. The weather is very hit or miss. The city of Bergen, especially, doesn’t see much sun. It’s important to be flexible and make last minute changes to your itinerary if necessary to take full advantage of the rarely seen sunshine. Even if it costs extra money.
Here’s how it worked for us:
Keeping an eye on the weather, the forecast called for one solid sunshine-filled day at the beginning of our Norway in a Nutshell tour. We were starting our journey in Bergen. To take advantage of the sunshine, we changed our reservation and left Bergen earlier than scheduled. We had to pay extra, but it was well worth it. It allowed us to have a sunny fjord cruise to Flam.
We got unbelievable pictures of the blue sky and gorgeous fjords. (Check out our video here: Norway Fjords.)
Then we made it to Flam with enough time to have sunshine-filled views from the Stegastein lookout (a dramatic scenic overlook a half-hour from Flam.) Spending the night in Flam, we had planned on doing Stegastein the following day – but that’s one view you don’t want to see through the clouds!
We ended up getting the most stunning views and superb panoramas of the fjords – both at the Stegastein overlook and on the fjord cruise.
This was easily our most scenic day of our entire Norway travels.
When taking a dream vacation, it’s important to be smart about how you spend your money. That sometimes means spending more to see more – or to see it better.
Now, I’m not saying the exact same thing will happen on your Norway in a Nutshell trip – but just pay attention to the weather and remain flexible in your travel plans to make the most of your time abroad.
5. Don’t race through the middle of the Norway in a Nutshell journey.
Bergen is beautiful and Oslo is pleasant, but by far the most dramatic part of the trip is in between the two cities. Don’t rush this leg of the journey. I can’t stress this enough. Plan to spend a couple of nights in the Flam fjord region and savor being up close and personal with the awe-inspiring scenery.
6. Avoid cruise ship dockings in Flam.
The tiny village of Flam lies at the end of the Aurland Fjord and is a popular place to spend a couple of nights along the Norway in a Nutshell tour. And with good reason: The region’s mountain peaks reach more than 4,500 feet high and include many waterfalls while the striking fjord sparkles against the coast.
Flam’s population is about 400, but each year the village welcomes several hundred thousand visitors, many by cruise ships.
Here’s a tip to avoid the cruise crowds:
Go online to crew-center.com and research ahead of time when the cruise ships will be docking in Flam.
Then plan accordingly to avoid those dates/times if at all possible. We spent 2 days in Flam in May and managed to avoid seeing any cruise ships. That was especially important since the cottage we rented for our stay was right on the water and our views would have been majorly blocked by a cruise ship. Keep in mind this is easier done during the shoulder season as there are less dockings during the spring and fall.
7. Discover the many things to do in Flam.
On your stopover, take advantage of all the outdoor adventures Flam has to offer. There are many things to do in Flam, such as: hike to Brekkefossen and feel waterfall mist on your face as you walk up a steep mountain trail. Quietly kayak the serene fjord waters soaking in the scenery, or take an exciting rib boat ride on the fjord.
Rent bikes and ride along the coast to a nearby village. Take a bus to the nearby Stegastein viewpoint – a dramatic overlook showcasing the sparkling fjord. Explore Flam’s historic stave church and the Flamsbana Museum. While exploring, stop in to the Aegir BrewPub for some delicious food and craft beer or for lighter fare – the Flam Bakery.
Whatever your choice of adventure, make memories amidst the amazing surroundings. Plan ahead when renting such things as bikes and kayaks – especially if you want to make use of the peaceful morning hours. We rented bikes the night before our early morning ride because we knew the bike shop wouldn’t be open as early as we needed.
8. Depart on a morning fjord cruise from Flam to avoid crowds.
In addition to enjoying the many things to do in Flam, overnighting in the village has other benefits. Flam is a destination in the middle of the Norway in a Nutshell tour. If you schedule your departure on a morning fjord cruise from Flam, you’ll avoid the crowds of people who are completing the journey between Oslo and Bergen all in one day – as they arrive and depart Flam mid-day.
9. Dress appropriately for the fjord cruise.
This point cannot be overstated! The fjords are why people visit Norway, so be prepared to take full advantage of the superb scenery as you sail right in the midst of them. Warning: The boat ride can get frigidly windy.
Bring warm clothing to put on so you can spend your time out on the deck of the boat instead of peering through a glare and fingerprint smudged window.
I was amazed by how many people sat INSIDE the boat during the fjord cruise. Yes, the temperature felt like it dropped 20 degrees because of the wind, but this stunning scenery surrounding you is why you came to Norway. You are on the boat for less than 2 hours.
The dazzling blue water and the bright blue sky separated only by dramatic mountain walls are sure to be the highlight of your trip. As soon as you board, don all of your layers (long-sleeve shirt, sweater, jacket, hat, gloves, scarf, etc.) and make your way outside. (For a detailed list of items I packed for our May trip to Norway – click here: Packing Light for a Multi-temperature Trip.)
Ryan and I bundled up and never came back inside the boat until the end. Few people were out there with us – many tried but weren’t dressed warmly enough to stay out more than a couple of minutes. We had full sun the entire ride, which is rare for this journey. We were able to soak it all in while capturing sunny blue sky photographs – and thankfully not through the boat’s window.
Relish Norway’s beauty from Bergen to Flam to Oslo.
As you prepare to relish in Norway’s stunning surroundings, keep in mind the tips above to create the perfect itinerary and the trip of a lifetime.
Khadine Ritter says
Planning our trip now. Thank you for the info! Would love to know more about the cottage your stayed in in Flam. Thanks!
Deanne says
Here is a link to the cottage we stayed in. We highly recommend it!! https://www.fretheimhytter.com/
Hope you have a great trip!
amy says
to spend less time in bergen and more time in the middle, where else (besides flam) would you recommend staying a night? we have 4 nights set aside for the journey from oslo to bergen (including time in bergen) before we depart to copenhagen. we’re traveling in late july. thank you!
Deanne says
Hi Amy, I’d spend a night in Bergen and then base yourself in Flam for the entire middle part of your journey. I wouldn’t venture to another town between Bergen and Oslo. There are plenty of things to do while basing yourself in Flam: lots of hiking, kayaking, boating and biking. You can take a bus trip to visit the Stegastein viewpoint., bike or take the train to nearby villages. You can explore overlooks, historic churches and buildings, plus some tour companies have excursions that leave from Flam and venture further out to other villages for the day. There’s even a zipline in the area if that sounds fun to you! I suggest researching the specific activities you’re interested in before you get there so you can make the most of your time. Hope that helps!
Gerri says
This was incredibly helpful. We used Norway in a Nutshell on our last trip to Norway 6 years ago but this makes it easy to understand our options for our upcoming trip. Thanks so much!
Deanne says
You’re welcome, Gerri! Have a great trip!
Malcolm Shapiro says
Thank you v v helpful
Deanne says
You’re welcome, Malcolm!
Sue says
Are there places for luggage on the trains and fjord cruise? You mentioned booking fjord cruise ahead of time, is this for the car ferry also?
Thanks
Deanne says
Yes, there are racks to put your luggage in both the trains and the fjord cruise. We didn’t use a car ferry, so I’m not sure if you need to book ahead for that, but I would assume so. Have fun!
Sam says
Thanks for the write up! Very helpful, I’m booking our train/boat tickets at the moment. We’re going to be there end of Feb so imagine it’ll be quite cold. We’ll arrive in Flam around 2pm and are staying the night. Would you recommend taking the morning or afternoon boat out of Flam? (originally I thought afternoon to enjoy more of Flam in the morning, but I see your point about the afternoon being busier with people doing the journey in one day)!
appreciate your advice.
warm regards, from Australia!
Deanne says
Sam, since you are traveling this route in February I don’t believe you will have to worry about the crowds so much. And since you’re only spending one night in Flam, I’d plan to explore more of Flam in the morning and leave on an afternoon cruise. Have a great time!
Bianca says
Hello! So glad I found your blog post! Trying to plan our trip in May and will follow your DIY Norway in a Nutshell. Just wanted to ask, how was it traveling with your luggage? Were there areas to stow your luggage on the Bergen Line and Flamsbana? I saw on the Norway in a Nutshell website to only take an overnight bag and avail of luggage transfer service from Oslo to Bergen but I also want to do what you did of spending a few days in Flam.
Also, how far in advance did you guys book your train and cruise tickets? Thank you in advance!!
Deanne says
Hi Bianca, Traveling with our luggage was not a problem. There are storage racks on the trains, boat, and bus. Many people travel this route with their luggage. We booked our train tickets a little less than 3 months in advance and our cruise ticket about a month in advance. To be honest, I’m not sure why we did it in that order. A better idea is to book your cruise ticket first. There are many train times/options to work with once you know the time of your cruise. Hope you have a wonderful time. Norway is gorgeous in May!!